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You must respect a government so judicious that it doesn't extract income tax from its writers. Being here in Ireland I get the feeling that their native scribes are indeed their national heroes, much as athletes are in America. And while some of the most famous like George Bernard Shaw and Oscar Wilde have infamously turned their pens on the British, most have spent their entire literary careers trying to make sense of their homeland, the country Shaw referred to as "the world's largest open-air lunatic asylum."

Ha'penny Bridge Across the Liffey River in Dublin

For a deeper understanding of Eire's authors, nothing can match a visit to the nation that bred them, especially its capital -- wandering the lanes of Dublin, strolling around Merrion Square to see the childhood home of Oscar Wilde, or visiting the stately campus of Trinity College, where for hundreds of years literary giants from Jonathan Swift to Samuel Beckett have attended classes. While at Trinity, you can even see the Book of Kells, a ninth-century work considered the greatest Anglo-Saxon illuminated manuscript ever produced. For bibliophilic bliss, see the college's Long Room in the Old Library, a 200-foot-long chamber containing over 200,000 volumes.

For further literary exploration of the city James Joyce referred to as, "dear dirty dumpling," you can visit the museum devoted to him on Great George's Street. Or tour the sites associated with other Dubliners: at St. Patrick's Cathedral, pay homage at the tomb of the satirist Swift, who was a dean of the church. South of the Liffey River, you can visit the humble birthplace of playwright George Bernard Shaw, one of Ireland's three Noble Laureates.

Memorabilia at the Writers Museum

However, two experiences offer an overall feel for the literary Dublin: the Dublin Writers Museum and the Dublin Literary Pub Crawl.  

Located in a Georgian townhouse on Parnell Square, the Writers Museum takes you through the history of Ireland's dead authors (possible inclusion giving the living ones something to look forward to). The exhibits include letters, manuscripts, first edition books, portraits and other memorabilia such as Brendan Behan's old typewriter, the one legendarily thrown through the window of a pub in a fit of temper. These artifacts provide a behind-the-scenes look at the artists' lives, such as a letter written by Richard Brinsley Sheridan pleading with his creditors. Composed two centuries ago, this document proves that some things haven't changed much in the writer's life.  

The museum also provides surprising information on women authors who haven't made it into the commonplace canon of literary studies in America. Maria Egdeworth, born in 1767, is credited with writing the first Irish novel and influencing the work of Sir Walter Scott. Lady Gregory (also known as Augusta Persse) penned 40 plays, and she joined with Yeats to launch the Irish Literary Revival. Together they founded the Abbey Theatre and supported dozens of aspiring writers.

Interestingly enough, there always seems to be a connection between the history of any Irish writer and a pub. This fact is what prompted the creation of the Dublin Literary Pub Crawl, a rollicking tour of the city's public houses that have a literary connection -- and that would seem to be most of them. Dramatically presented by two actors, the evening's narrative was like watching a play with a constantly changing set. As we did, you can visit Davy Byrnes pub, familiar to readers of Joyce's Ullyses.

In December we spent more time at another Joyce hangout, McDaids, because the interior has retained its authentic atmosphere.

The Joyce Hangout

The space is odd, with the ceiling seeming taller than the room is long, as if one were drinking in an uprighted shoebox. The soaring arched windows provided an occasional glimpse of humanity beyond the pub, as Grafton Street shoppers passed by with holiday packages. Inside, the lovely walnut bar festooned with garlands and the miniature Christmas tree made the establishment feel like home -- which it appeared to be for many.

McDaids is one of the oldest pubs in Dublin, an establishment that's seen plenty of writers pony up to the bar in its history, particularly during the 1940s and 50s when it was the scene of the avant garde Irish literary set. They came for the craic and the inspiration -- it's rumored that McDaids regulars have been the basis for numerous fictional characters. It was also the local of the rambunctious Brendan Behan, who must have roused some concern entering with his typewriter.

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More information on these Dublin destinations:

http://www.writersmuseum.com/
http://www.dublinpubcrawl.com/

Going to London?

Visiting Dublin via London? Read Miller's review of Daunt Books, "a terrific shop of new and used tomes, located in London's fashionable Marylebone district..." and stay in one of the hotels she reviewed in her column, Literary London.